Wednesday, 9 September 2015

Aria Super Fuzz Sustainer

Pawel from turretboard.knucklehead.dk (aka sinner from FSB) has very kindly offered for us to post some of his layouts which no longer fit with the theme of his website, and so we're starting off with the Aria Super Fuzz Sustainer.

I can't find much in the way of marketing info so don't know what Aria had to say about it (any info gratefully received) but here is a short youtube video I found:







I'm sure everyone will join me in saying thanks to Pawel.


14 comments:

  1. Great to see more contributions to this amazing blog. Welcome Pawel! I'm a newbie to this wonderful DIY world, but this site has changed my life. Thanks so much IvIark, Mirosal and everyone else. Solder on!

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  2. Very cool. I was actually thinking of drawing this circuit for the blog!

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  3. Hi Mark. Just read the trace thread on FSB. Pots should be Linear, not Log. Being basically a Muff without recovery stage I assume Muff transistors will do the job? And silicon diodes too looks like. Hope to verify this in the next few days. And cheers to Pawel!

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    1. I'll get the pots changed and yes, any good muff trannies will do fine. It's just a muff with no recovery stage at the end of the day

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    2. I think I've just spotted a mistake on the layout. D3 and D4 are shown as anti-parallel (opposing) on the schematic, but they look like the are parallel on the layout.

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  4. There appears to be a boo-boo in the schematic too. R6 at the bottom of the Sustain pot is shown as 10k, but it looks like 1k in the gut shot and 1k is a typical value for this resistor in a BMP as well.

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  5. diodes and transistors types ??

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  6. OK I've altered the pot types and the parallel diodes. For transistor and diodes, I'm not really sure what was used in the original, so just try any of your favourite NPN silicon trannies and silicon diodes. BC550C and 1N4148 are always a safe bet.

    For the sustain 1 resistor, the higher value will mean the pedal won't go quite as clean so I'd probably recommend what suits your playing style best, or try both and see which you like. It won't be a biggy for most people because I suspect most people will dime the sustain anyway :o)

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  7. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  8. You welcome guys. I have more to come, much more... I just need to get my personal things sorted first. I'm in the middle of process to get new job. After that I will flood you with my old layouts.
    BTW, my new website is actually www.turretboard.co.uk. It's mainly on FB right now, but should go traditional way as soon as I get some free time to spare

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  9. VERIFIED!

    It is what it is. I've a few Muffs built from here and I don't see this one replacing any of them to be honest. There's still enough volume past unity but I think the the monstrous volume you get from a Big Muff is subconsciously comforting. I used 2N5088s and 1N4148s.

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  10. Sorry for being a complete noob but where can I find the descriptions for the symbols used in the diagrams?

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    1. C= capacitor
      D= diode
      R= resistor. The color code indicates the value. Make a Google search " resistor color code", it will give you the corresponding value. There are small apps that do this too !
      Q= transistor
      The red dots mean that the copper trace (on the bottom of the veroboard) must be cut.

      Also check on the schematic, as the values are all given there. Read also all the comments relative the the effect you want to build. I've learnt a lot doing so.

      Check also the different DIY links given on the right. There's a lot you can learn from here.

      Welcome to DIY !

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