Monday, 12 October 2015

Death By Audio Reverberation Machine

Info about the original:
The Reverberation Machine is a synthetic atmosphere creator. Use the effect on any instrument to add depth and simulate different environments. Experiment and combine a variety of settings to obtain the perfect ambiance for your sound.
The controls on this pedal are straightforward. Volume, Altitude, Reverb Blend and two distinct reverb flavors: Bright Sunshine and Dark Star. Altitude adjusts the gain structure of the reverb and the clean simultaneously creating exciting new reverberation soundscapes that span from subtle to wild.

Although the controls are extremely easy to use and intuitive, there is a vast array of sounds. Everything from simulations of vintage amp verb, playing in a cave, large concert halls, and space ships being sucked into wormholes.


UPDATE! Test values between 0 & 10K for R1 to improve Bright Sunshine side.



125 comments:

  1. Can anyone suggest a source for the TLC27M4ALN ? It appears to be a standard quad op-amp - maybe a TLO could replace it ?

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    1. I wonder if it is supposed to be a TLC27M4AiN at any rate I think the suffix just determines the package it comes in. I found the AiN at mouser.

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    2. You're right - the table is here :
      http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tlc27m9.pdf
      In the UK , available at Farnell and RS

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  3. I love those Knobs guys. Weird stuff demoed on the most original and trippiest way. I was going to go for the Wampler faux spring reverb, but I've just started loosing my interest on it... :S

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  4. it is funny what those guys at death by audio can come up with and still wearing straitjackets all of them.

    psycho stuff every time :P

    well done Alex!!

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  5. It's a great day whenever someone posts a DBA layout.

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  6. I just could find TLC274CP/TLC274CN... (Banzai/Tayda)

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  7. Alex, you're on a roll. Jesus, I have parts for 10 pedals waiting in my drawer and you keep posting these great layouts here. Cannot wait to get my hands on this weird junky reverb!

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  8. I just ordered the tlc27m4ain from mouser so hopefully I'll be able to put this together in a week or so. Is there any reason a BTDR-1 wouldn't work as long as I account for the pinout being different?

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  9. Why are some verified and unverified? Shouldn't the person who uploaded the tagboard have already verified it? Lol sorry if the answer is obvious, I'm just curious...

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    1. hey man. to answer your question that's not way the community works, as we all work to help verify the layouts. there are two different places you'll find layouts; here on the main page, and in the contributions section of forum. on the main page only the admins (IVIark, Miro, alex, javi, travis, and myself) can post layouts, in the contributions section anyone can post layouts. so as we get request someone will create a layout, and who ever is interested in that effect can build it to help verify it, and if it doesn't work first shot help figure out how to get it working.

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    2. Oh I see, that's pretty cool. I'm for sure looking to contribute. I already did some layouts that worked (catalinbread naga viper and an em-drive). I'll definitely post about the builds as soon as possible. Looking forward to helping out anyway I can. Thanks for the response!

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  10. Sorry posted in someone elses reply Doh!
    Chips are available from RS UK and there not expensive. I ordered 5 for £3.47 and free next day delivery so i have them already. Nice one RS!

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    1. Nice! Hope you can verify it by the time my parts arrive! (Not that I mind building an unverified layout)

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  11. Hey guys,
    Great work again on this layout!
    I'm just wondering what gain c1m is meant to be?

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    1. Thanks Nico!
      It's a 1M Reversed Pot.

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  12. Have one of these - GEAT reverb. I also love the gain on this box. So loose/grainy... Sometimes I'll turn the verb all the way off and just use the gain. Have been wishing I could just isolate the post-reverb gain section and build me a box of just that. What are the odds I'm not alone? I could build it... I'm just not sure what parts to isolate (or if it can be done at all). Anyone?

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    1. You could always make this a 6 pot pedal, (like the micro pog mod). That way you could have 2 different switchable presets: one with a "normal"reverb and the other with only the gain, (or whatever knob configuration you prefer). That´s what I´m planning to do ;)

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    2. This is great. Would it be too much trouble to post a drawing/schematic/layout/instructions on how exactly to implement the double-knobs? I would love to be able to switch between a super drenched verb and a more tame and glittery sound. I've owned a RM for a long time, this is up there with my all-time favorite effects pedals. DBA really nailed this one, but expanding its utility would be even better.

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    3. Well, this is the micro pog mod: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3REflIQHxAc/U30p-uZHhdI/AAAAAAAAHbQ/guYYzpbA3Yw/s1600/Micro+POG+Dual+Control.png

      I´ve made a picture of what probably is the dirtiest written by hand diagram in the world, but I think is understandable: http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah171/Thrashtop/2df22e70-de69-4dc0-ab94-45b2c1c186a0_zps5ybuiozo.jpg~original

      I´ve used right-side pole to switch between 2 different leds.
      Another interesting mod could be conecting the dark/bright switch to a 3dpt stompswitch, with a 2 colours led, so we could know where we are.
      If some layout master could take a look at it, that would be great, cause I´ve got the impression that some signal could be sucked by lugs 1 of non selected blend/volume pots, since they go straight to ground...
      Cheers, Gilberto

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    4. Layout/Circuit master, trapiak and I summon you! (pretty please?!) =)

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    8. (Edited)

      I didn´t build it yet, but I´ve been checking the diagram and came up with an alternative way to do it:

      Blend pots: (It goes to the left side switch pole)
      Throw a lead from the center lug of A Blend pot to the switch top lug, and connect another lead from the center lug of B Blend pot to the switch bottom lug. Then throw a lead from BLEND2, (board), to the center switch lug. Finally throw a lead from A/B Blend pots left lugs to btdr 6.

      Gain pots: If the original diagram wiring is not working, we could try the following:
      (This one goes to the switch pole that´s placed just at the right side of the previously used pole)
      Connect GAIN2, (board), to the center lug of the switch. Then connect the top switch lug to A Gain pot center lug, and connect the bottom switch lug to B Gain pot center lug. Then connect both A/B Gain pots right lugs to GAIN1, (board).

      Volume pots: I think they´re fine.

      I´m pretty sure that this will work, (fingers crossed...)

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  13. Count this as verified. As far as i can tell it sounds just like the demo with maybe a wee bit of noise but its unboxed at the moment so i reckon that will tame it. Really nice reverb.

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    1. Hmm.. just looking on the RS site for Ireland and they only have the TLC27M4ACN, is that the one you used? Looking at the data sheet, the only difference is in the temperature operating range though so unless you're planning on recording in a deep freeze the chips should be good...

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  14. Anybody tried swapping out the TLC27M4 for an LM324 or a TL074 yet?

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    1. Tried both plus the TL084, works with all, I settled with the Tl074, I think it's less bass heavy than the Tl084, the Lm324 seems to be a bit more crackly using humbuckers, I'm going to order the proper TLC27m4 just to see if it's better but mine sounds very like the one in the video above.

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  15. Is there a high current draw for this circuit? Just wondering if I could get away with using a 78L05 in place of the LM7805?

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  16. Hi, I'm newbie to building guitar effects. What is OGI on the board? I can't find it anywhere.

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    1. That's the pinout of the voltage regulator O-regulated voltage out G-ground I-voltage in (9V)

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  17. Could you please point me to a schematic of this circuit?

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    1. You'll find the schematic here:
      http://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=26874

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  18. Any idea how this would work in an effects loop?

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  20. I was wondering how you guys deal with the reverb brick inside the pedal.
    Do you make the connections from the board to the brick pins and just leave it around or use any kind of shocket/daughterboard?
    Cheers, Gilberto.

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    1. I cut an IC socket in half with side cutters and soldered that to a small piece of vero/stripboard. That way I can replace or remove the brick without soldering. Works fine.

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    2. That's a great idea! I wouldn't have thought an IC socket would be the right size for the pins of a Belton. I'll have to try this. Great way to not feel committed to a reverb build if it's not your cup of tea.

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  21. I had a similar idea but didn´t know if the brick pins would fit in those dip sip shockets.
    Thank you very much

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  22. I just finished this but am not getting the gain sounds from it. I couldn't find the TLC27M4ALN so I used a TLC274ACN instead. When I turn up the gain knob I get a lot more bass but hardly any more gain. Do you guys think this would be because I used the TLC274ACN or did I screw something else up? Everything else seems to be working as it should.

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    1. I did some research and the tlc274 dont appear as a direct replacement to the tlc27m, however, both data sheets presents same pin order. Maybe check the 470pf cap that´s on the gain2(board) row. It bypasses the gain pot and is always sending IC output signal to the feedback loop, (gain1 row).
      Take a look at what´s happening inside the red circle on this diagram:
      http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah171/Thrashtop/dba-RM%20red%20circle_zpsirqaqvyp.png
      That´s the whole gain pot path.

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    2. Thanks for the help! I socketed a TL074 and a LM324 and got similar results with both. I don't know what exactly to look for when checking op amps so I am not sure if these are suitable replacements either. Do you think that putting in the TLC27M4ALN would solve my issues or would i most likely still have the same results I have been getting?

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    3. If you look at this picture http://circuits.datasheetdir.com/37/TLC274A-pinout.jpg you will see a labeled pin TLC274. The circuit uses 2in+ 2in- out2 for the gain network, (you can see it above the red circle at the previous diagram as U2).
      So take a look at the vero layout ad realize that IC 2out goes to vol2 through a 220 cap, and also straight to gain2 which sends the signal back to 2in- through gain1 row.
      My advice would be checking all the gain network, (gain1/gain2 rows and gain pot), and all the components involved.

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    4. I also used TLC274CN from tayda. It is an awesome reverb, but I also expected more dirt from it. Also one side of the switch gives a really big reverb while the other side doesn't reverb that much.

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  24. Hey guys. A quick question on the switch wiring for this one (for the DPDT). Does it go left to right & up to down:

    12
    34
    56

    or up to down & left to right?

    14
    25
    36

    Thanks in advance

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  25. On the layouts are always
    1 4
    2 5
    3 6

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  26. I used the TLC274CN from Tayda and it seems to be working perfectly. Nice reverb! Thanks for the sweet layout!

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  27. Hi guys ! Hot project here !
    But am I the only one wondering where the SPDT switch (dark/bright on the original) is connected to the vero ?

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  28. Hey! What kind of caps are the yellow ones? Mustards?
    Thank you! Looking forward to build it.

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  29. Hi there!
    Sounds awesome! but the only problem I have is that there seems to be a delay between the dry signal and the wet signal?
    Thanks!

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  30. And it only seems to be on the bright sunshine setting, as i turn up the gain knob it gets very distorted and delayed very quickly

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  31. I finally got mine together with some bugs. The volume seems to go zero to near full in a short turn (it is audio taper) and the gain pot at full up cuts out the signal. I'm also getting some static noise.

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    1. Ok I just had some incorrect wiring. There is a lot of static noise present though.
      Not that it has anything to do with my problem but why is the volume pot wired different than usual? It's creating sort of an odd volume sweep, shouldn't pins 2 and 3 be swapped?

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  32. Okay problem solved i had the tiniest track
    Next issue is that the reverb is quite tame, it has quite a short tail even at full.
    Help appreciated!

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  33. So... I'm the only one who's bothered by the fact that the SPDT switch for Bright/Dark is missing ?

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    1. I think you're just the only one that doesn't see the switch xD

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    2. OMFG !! I see ONE DPDT switch, that has his 6 pins connected to the board... But somehow I thought it was the (not so) true bypass of the effect pedal. The fact that you just insisted on the only switch visible made me rethink...
      Thanks a lot Travis. Now I can start that awesome project.
      Will come back for more as soon as I get the time to work on it ^^

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  34. I want to add the dwell mod daughterboard to make it kind of DBA Ty Segall "Sunshine Reverberation".
    http://johnkvintageguitars.homestead.com/Effects/BOHreverb/Box_of_Hall_-_With_Dwell_V2.png

    I was wondering where to place the feedback loop path here. My guess is taking the direct output of the belton brick and sending it straight to the belton input through the dwell daughterboard/pot, right?

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  35. I finally built one with the double control mod and without the dwell mod, (maybe later).
    http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah171/Thrashtop/IMAG0436_zpsuw3mhi7t.jpg

    http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah171/Thrashtop/IMAG0438_zpstlrz0jn7.jpg

    I found the "Altitude" knob brings up the gain all the way up at the first 25% of its run. It does pretty much nothing from there.
    The pot is a C1M.
    Should I try lin/logs or a lower value should work better?
    Cheers, Gilberto.

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  37. I built this last night, seems to work fine and sound similar enough to the original unit, however, as soon as I turn the blend knob up anywhere past a third, it becomes awfully noisy and with the blend at full, there is a ridiculous amount of noise. Anybody had a similar issue? Solutions?

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  38. Guys, perhaps a newbie question. Built this and its not working. I started following the signal path with an audio probe, and every time I get to a 1m resistor i get no sound on the other side of it....i checked the resistor with a multi meter and there is continuity across them. but for some reason the audio signal will not cross...any ideas on this?

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  39. I've tried to build this circuit and am pulling hair out!! I can't get it to work. I have more than triple checked my connections with a continuity meter and placement of my components. All my cuts are fine and connections are solid.

    I have followed the off board wiring from this website and am getting sound through when it is bypassed but when the effect is switched on there is no sound at all. The LED works as it should so power and signal and getting to it but no sound is coming out when on.

    I used all the values as stated, and used a TLC27M4AIN chip (I know the circuit say TLC27M4ALN but reading through the first few comments I know other have used what I used and it works)

    Any ideas? Someone put me out of my misery I have been trouble shooting for nearly 2 days :O

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    1. If you've gone thru everything. Cut the gaps. Checked voltages on ic's. Checked parts before putting on board and you can't find the problem and you've spent two days troubleshooting. I would say build another board. It takes a few hrs to build a board. I've only had a few boards not work that I've gone over with a fine tooth. Sometimes it happens. It's not worth it to debug

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  40. Finished it, dark star works great but bright sunshine gives me a very subtle reverb only when the blend pot is dimed. I wish I would have payed more attention before boxing it up.

    With the pots at max and the bright sunshine switch voltages are:


    78L05:
    I: 8.35
    G:0
    O: 4.92

    TLC27M4ALN
    1: 4.24
    2: 4.24
    3: 2.85
    4: 8.35
    5: 2.65
    6: 3.5
    7: 4.13
    8: 0
    9: 6.2 (fluctuates, highest reading)
    10: 0
    11: 0
    12: 2.85
    13: 4.15
    14: 4.15

    BDTR-2
    1: 4.93
    2: 0
    3: 0
    4: 0
    5: 0.03
    6: 0

    Tried it out with a TL064 as well with the same results, no voltages though. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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    1. I'm having the same issue as this. The dark channel has massive spacey reverb but the bright side's reverb is almost non-existent. Did you find a solution yet?
      Cheers!

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  41. To all who have problems, please check everything.

    This pedal works perfectly on every pot(max and min).

    Here is my build! Really interesting monster hehe

    https://hgecontraptions.blogspot.ro/2016/09/death-by-audio-reverberation-machine.html

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  42. Hey guys ! Thanks for your remarks on that "bright side" lack of reverb issue. I don't feel that alone anymore. Mine is not boxed yet (a friend is colouring it :D) but I managed to test the build and wasn't sure if that lack of reverb was coming from the breadboard itself or my "testing rig", which I was testing ^^ Would it be useful to insert a 10k trimmer instead of R1 ?
    Other question, this time to those who already boxed theirs : does the LM7805 heat up a lot ? Couldn't test the project very long so not too sure... Razvan S. I browsed your link, saw your gutshots and realized you didn't put any heatsink on yours. Not necessary ?

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    1. Tested a 10k instead (no trimmer) of the 100k resistor : works like a charm !! A lot of headroom/space/echo (whatever you call the reverb effect in your sound :D) gained on the "bright side".
      And my LM7805 doesn't heat up, so I guess I'll be good without a heatsink ;)

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  43. Hi when you say tested 10k instead of 100k, do you mean r1 which was between 0 and 10k? or do you mean you replaced a 100k with 10k, if so where? I can't find a happy medium have tried 1.5k 1.8k 870r and others, but the bright side sounds pretty average still? any suggestions?

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  44. Hello everyone, just a short question for those who've built and played with this one. Does it cut some of the highs of the clean signal when you turn it on? With my build it does and I was wondering if it's normal. By the way, connecting pin 5 of the brick with pin 3 via a 47n-100n cap and a C100k potentiometer(as a variable resistor)in series, makes a nice decay control.

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    2. It cut some highs and boost the lows to my ears.
      It works nice on a fender twin, but is just too much for my el34 amp.
      I guess that something could be done changing some caps at the dry path

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  45. Hello DIY friends !

    I've a question about the reverb' module : can we use the new Belton BTDR-3 module ?
    http://www.tubeampdoctor.com/images/File/BTDR-3%20DIGI-LOG%20REVERB%20MODULE.pdf

    And add two pots (or dual one) for tuning the reverb depth (decay) ?

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    1. Unfortunately No, I do not believe so.
      That module (#3) is completely different.
      I've used both. Besides a different pin sequence, I believe it's the modulation that is adjustable in the #3 module that makes it different. I do know from other builds that the two are not interchangeable.
      I'm no expert so if I'm incorrect hopefully one of the experts will set us straight.

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  46. Damn, as there was no answers, I just ordered and received the module :(

    I'll try with it and come back to let you know what append...

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    1. I believe the biggest difference is in the pins.
      Check some of the other builds that use both the "2" version and the "3" version and you should be able to identify where to wire what pin.
      Other builds have certainly been adapted for use with either of the modules so I know it's possible.
      Good Luck!!! and I am sorry it took me so long to give you my opinion the first time.

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  47. Hey guys,
    I'm currently building this thing which seems to sound awesome.
    Is it me who is blind or dumb, I can't find where to connect pin 5 of the belton brick? Should it be jumpered with pin 6?

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    1. Hello !
      In the BTDR-2, the 5 is the Output 2 and 6 is the Output 1.
      As the Rev' Machine use only one Output of the brick, it's okay :)

      Fo info, the BTDR-3 works the same way, so I think I'll be fine to use this module.
      I'll come back when my project will be finished :)

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    2. Ok that's great! Thanks a lot for the answer! I dis read before about the output 1&2 but didn't know I could just squeeze one of them!

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  48. I'm Getting less reverb on the bright channel (on that there is a nice small reverb but no quack/repeat) the dark channel is close. but both channels seem less bright.
    Ive tred a 10k and a 1ohm resistor in R1 position and although a bit brasher/brighter the reverb length is stil small on the bright channel.

    Can anyone make any suggestion?

    thanks,
    Matt.

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  49. Has anyone adressed the issue with the lack of reverb on the bright channel?

    Please let me know.
    Anything may help.
    Matt.

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  50. Hey there !

    My 'verb is finished, and I can say it works perfectly with BTDR-3 brick.
    For the decay pot, just wire it like the Rub a Dub Reverb Deluxe :)

    I just notice that the volume is very subtil, and this pedal has a little breath (I dont know if this is correct in english)

    About R1, I put a 10K trimer, and after test I can say the lower R1 is, the shimmer the bright mod reverb is.

    @Mattfode : I don't notice any lacke of reverb with the bright channel...
    Check all the composants again, in particular on the the capacitors, I made some missplacing on two of them (second 220nF on the left, 10nF at the center), so the reverb doesn't sing at first try ^^

    Keep going !

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  51. So...I finally managed to get a working pedal after severaaal tries :)
    There is one thing troubling me though, there is a sort of pre-delay/latency when I play it. I've checked solder bridges, wiring, components placement, etc...so far everything is like the initial drawing.
    Anyone would have a clue to where to give a closer look?

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    1. Unfortunately, I have the same. I have built one and then rebuilt another. Everything seems to be working, but especially the bright mode gives more of a slapback echo.
      If you strum softly/slowly, it's not noticable. And only on the higher verb settings. The demo's are hard to judge, cause no one picks hard.

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  53. I built the board some weeks ago, just waiting on some hardware to arrive. I should have mine built in a few weeks, we'll see how it works out!

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  54. My build with decay control and oscillation switch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZ2aj73HYxk&feature=youtu.be

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    1. What features/substitutions did you build into your pedal that's not in the layout here. What value did you have in the place of R1?

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    2. I used 4k7 resistor and added a decay pot from pin 3 and 5 of belton

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    3. Great thanks. How did you build the oscillation switch, does that just take something out of the circuit, can you point me in the right direction for this information? I think that was a great feature!

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    4. For the decay pot and momentray switch,iIt's an easy mod, you actually make a feedback path between the output on pin 5 of the Belton brick back to the input pin 3. You connect these pins via a 47n/100n capacitor (the bigger the capacitor the more bass goes into the feedback signal) and a C100k pot wired as a variable resistor. This can be a decay pot. If you don't want the decay pot and just want the momentary feedback switch, make the same feedback path and put a 100k trimmer instead of the potentiometer. Now the connection should go like this: Belton brick pin 5 -> capacitor -> 100k trimmer(as a variable resistor) -> momentary switch pin 1. From the momentary pin 2, another cable to pin 3 of the brick. So when you press the switch you connect these pins together (via the RC network) and you get feedback. How much feedback, is controlled by the 100k trimmer. You can get from instant oscillations to more subtle extra decay. This effect is more intense on the bright reverb mode of the pedal.

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    5. Brilliant, thanks for the help. I really loved how this mod enhanced the effect. I just built this layout into a 125B. Rather than re-work it I think I'll get another Belton brick and build another into a 1590B with the decay pot and momentary switch. Thanks again Marcello, this is really helpful!

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    6. I'm a little confused about how to hook up the trim pot. Which pins do I use? I have the square blue one with the offset pins. Thanks!

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  56. Completed this using 10K resistor at R1 and TLC274CN from Tayda. Sounds just like the demos, brilliant! Thanks for the layout!

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  57. Here is a picture of mine: http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/Chance_N_Sarah/media/Pedals/DBA%20Reverb%20Machine%201_zpsqstk9poy.jpg.html

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  58. Hey guys ive having some trouble with my build if someone could help.
    Everything seems to work fine except the Gain knob, when its maxed out its clean sounding and full normal bypassed guitar sound (reverb works fine with it), but when you turn the gain knob down it just drops in volume and cuts all the lows from the signal so it sounds super trebly and quiet. Does anyone know what i should look for to fix this?
    The only things i did different to this build were i used a 1N4007 instead of a 1N4001, used a TLC27M4AIN instead of the TLC27M4ALN, a LM78I05 instead of an LM7805, and a Linear 1M Pot instead of the C1M Pot..
    Also i get a slight high pitched squealing sometimes when the reverb is maxed out, i thought maybe it could be cause i was testing this with alligator clips and everything being open so maybe when its all soldered up together properly it hopefully wont, but if not is that another issue someone knows how to fix?
    Thank you

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    1. I got this fixed up dont worry, sounds great! Loving this.

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  59. Just finished my build and I'm really pleased with it. I have an original so I've been able to compare the two. Pretty sure everything I used was exactly as specified. I also added a decay control and oscillation foot switch. Thanks to Marcello M for his clear instruction. This was my third tagboard build all successful so far!

    I socketed R1 so I could try a few different resistors I started out with a 4.7K and there was very little discernible difference between the dark/bright channels. Kept lowering until I ended up just linking the two sockets. Still not quite as bright as my original but not far off at all. And I kind of prefer it.

    Will post some photos and a demo if anyone is interested. Thanks for all yr help everyone who contributed to this thread.

    Stef

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    1. I'm a little confused about how to hook up the trim pot. Which pins do I use? I have the square blue one with the offset pins. Thanks!

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  60. I think there might be an error on the vero (and the schematic from freestompboxes: http://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=26874).

    Looking at the gut shots, the chip reads A**i**N, not A**L**N. The letters are all capitalized. This looks like an I (capital i), not an L. (http://i.imgur.com/gqHtrn3.jpg)

    (This would matter because the TLC27M4AIN is easy to find. If there is such a thing as an A**L**N, they are not exactly easy to find.)

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  61. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  62. I just built this and it's not working very well. Any help would be appreciated. It works fine in bypass mode. When engaged and with all knobs full up, you can barely hear the effect. On top of that there is a rhythmic thumping. Used all parts called for in the layout minus the TLC27M4ALN. I could only find the TLC27M4AIN. Here's some voltages.
    78L05:
    I: 8.26
    G: 0
    O: 4.97

    TLC27M4ALN
    1: 4.15
    2: 4.13
    3: 3.93
    4: 8.26
    5: 3.92
    6: 4.12
    7: 4.12
    8: 0
    9: .24
    10: 0
    11: 0
    12: 3.92
    13: 4.12
    14: 4.12

    BDTR-2H
    1: 4.97
    2: 0
    3: 0
    4: 0
    5: 0.04
    6: 0

    Cut between lines to make sure I didn't have any unwanted connections, as well as where the cuts are. As far as I can tell, the components appear to all be functioning. If anyone dealt with a similar issue, maybe that would point me in the right direction. I'm thinking I'll have to make an audio probe and give that a shot and if all else fails, I can rebuild it. Just trying to save it. Seems like I'm close, but just can't find the issue. Thanks for any help!

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    1. Judging by the (lack of) voltages on pins 2 to 6 on your brick, there's a dodgy connection grounding the signal.

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    2. Anthony, thanks for the help. I'll take another look.

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  63. Hello I've built this many months ago and it sounds great, not exactly like the original because the gain knob doesn't bring much crazy fuzzy distortion but I'm ok with that. What I 'd like to change is the dry signal to be a bit less muddy, when the pedal is engaged I've got some treble loss (and perhaps some bass boost) on my dry signal.. Do you have any recommendations about what parts to adjust, based on the schematic so it can sustain the original sound as when bypassed? Thanks in advance!!

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    1. Don't bother with the 470pf cap that's across the Gain pot. It brightens up the fuzz considerably.

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    2. Thanks for the answer! So should I try to change that 470p cap or do you think it won't improve it the way I want?

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    3. Won't this brighten up the blended sound? I mean both the dry and the wet signal?

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    4. From memory, it brightens the fuzz sound. I also found the clean sound to be a little dull on this pedal but I’d used an etched board so couldn’t be bothered to meddle with it (also tend to use it with lots of reverb mixed in so it’s not really an issue). I wonder if reducing the 1uF caps (to 680nF maybe) around the IC would raise the frequency for the low pass filtering and thus restore some high end to the dry signal.

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  64. Hi,
    I built this pedal and it worked but with less reverb on the bright channel -so I tried swapping the resistor as recommended and was a bit better.
    But now although most of the pedal works as normal there is little/No reverb.

    I tried a new brick and a new chip and there is no change, so before I spend a fortune is there anything else I should try?
    Could the voltage regulator be the issue?
    I know very little about electronics so any help or suggestions at all would be great.

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    1. Post your voltages, Matt. I’ll check them against mine.

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  65. Built with original chip, used a 56r for R1.. I found the bright side had delay between reverbed sound as others mentioned if it was much over 560r. I think I may try the B1M for gain, it's a great effect.

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